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ELLE’s Executive Fashion Editor on autumn trends

September 3rd, 2010 by Stacey Duguid

Stacey Duguid is the Executive Fashion Editor of ELLE magazine in London.  She moved from Edinburgh to London in 1994 where she began her career in fashion working for Paul Smith, then Giorgio Armani and Prada.  She started working on ELLE in October 2004 where she works as a fashion editor and writer.

I’m forever on Twitter.  Don’t switch off; this gets more interesting I promise.  I follow Guardian Books, The LA Times, The New York Times, CNN, BBC, food writers, fashion writers, I even follow the crazy catbinlady whose laconic observations from suburbia have made cult status both here and in America.  Most Tweets are fairly forgettable and unless they feed to a news link, there’s not a lot of substance can be applied to the obliged 140 characters.  However, this week I read this fashion-thought-provoking Tweet by a fashion blogger: ‘are women over the age of 30 really interested in what the colours of the season are?”  No, was my immediate thought, absolutely not.  We are not teenagers, we are not easily marketed to, we are grown women and we will not be told to wear colours that don’t suit us. Several hours later, having dismounted my high horse, a thought occurred; I’d spent a month scouting for camel, khaki, and stone coloured blouses, I had become obsessed with finding the ‘right’ coloured 70s denim skirt, I suddenly needed mustard in my wardrobe and I despise mustard. Where had this colour fanaticism come from and why was it suddenly OK to wear colour-draining camel and stone?  So here I am, wearing all the colours I had never considered before thanks to Celine, Max Mara and Tommy Hilfiger and I’m way over 30 by the way.

For the past year now, fashion has been less about restrictive trends and more about key pieces.  Buying into pieces rather than trends may sound easier in terms of wardrobe building, but the reality is we’re used to being dictated to in terms of what the trends are and ‘how to wear’ them.  When we were into trend led shopping, we may have made the occasional fashion mistake by buying into trend pieces that didn’t suit us, but in general it was pretty much fool-proof; we had been given our orders by the fashion magazines and that was all we needed to know.  I’d just like to add here that the wide shoulder trend, (shudder) now lurks in a black bin liner in my hallway ready and waiting for the next Oxfam drop off.  We’ve been spoon fed the trends for so long now we’ve been left in a sort of sartorial no-man’s-land, so here, for your fashion delectation, may I introduce my new season checklist of things to buy this autumn.  Delete as appropriate!

The Camel Coat
They’re everywhere and yes, you should own one and it probably should be by the king of the camel coat Max Mara and possibly styled in the manner of a 70s mum.

See You In Court
Who would have thought it?  It’s goodbye unwearable, unwalkable, unbearable shoes and hello low-heel-height court shoes!  As worn by office workers and police officers alike, the sensible court shoe has been off the fashion radar since the eighties but it’s back for autumn and is the perfect partner to the new fitted trouser shapes (see below for details).  Don’t go for patent, stick to classic black or go for tonal colours such as mink and chocolate.  Embrace it now whilst the trend lasts.  Who knew being able to walk fast would be so, errr convenient?

The white shirt
The white shirt is an instant wardrobe updater but you will have to shop around for the perfect fit.  I tried on 7 before I settled on one from Cos.  Who knew the white shirt could be so complicated?

Take A Hike
The hiking book has been around since last winter and is one of my favourite winter boot styles; it’s modern, it’s warm, it’s functional.  Wear them with skinny jeans in winter or with skirts and bare legs for autumn (fake tan possibly required).

The Aviator
When Burberry’s creative director Christopher Bailey showed the most perfect shearling aviator jacket in his latest show, we knew they’d create a high street frenzy.  An aviator could be your weekend jacket this season; I love the one from Top Shop.

I’m Feeling For Fuzzy
A fake fur handbag is possibly not high on your wish list, but they are a must-have bag style this season to why not experiment.  If you do purchase one I suggest you don’t wear it with anything else made from fake fur, you could be mistaken for Fuzzy Bear. Wear with a simple, tailored black coat and try to avoid small dog breads.

Show Me Your Black Pants
When I say pants I mean trousers but I love the way pants sound.  GAP has launched the ‘perfect pant collection’ and tailoring is well and truly back in a big way.  Some of the best-cut trousers I’ve found this season are from REISS

The Pussy Bow Blouse
The blouse just got sexy thanks to Chloe designer Hannah McGibbon and they are everywhere.  I bought 4 blouses this season, all in silk or silk mix and all in cream, stone, khaki and tan. A slick of red lipstick helps keep this look modern.  I wear my blouse with high waisted jeans.

The Snood In The Hood
View the snood as the new scarf but with the added bonus of it being half a hat too.  I plan to buy a fake fur style and an Argyll knitted one too, perfect for layering over military coats.

The Black Tailored Jacket
This for me is the key piece of the season, it’s a wardrobe no brainer and I buy one every year.  The latest style is the so-called ‘husband cut’, meaning more grown up than the boyfriend jacket, less boxy and nicer fabric.  The finale of the Dolce show was for me a really special fashion moment, a sea of supermodels wearing nothing but black tailored jackets and knickers, molto sexy!

Key-piece-shopping may sound terribly sensible but they will be your forever-wardrobe-friends.  I have a Stella McCartney black tailored jacket I bought 4 years ago and I still wear it at least once a week.  Trend led shopping may have gone for the time being so enjoy fashion’s new sedate mood and enjoy being simply and elegantly you.

Chic on the Slopes? Ski’s Most Definitely Optional

February 2nd, 2010 by Stacey Waterman

I’m told it is the most exhilarating and rewarding sport but I have never been skiing. The thought of hurling oneself head first down a steep hill at a rather acute angle is as about as inviting as taking part in a bush tucker trial. I’m more of a water person myself and happiest near or under water. Scuba diving is relaxing but fast movement across snow filled plains is for penguins – if you’ve seen the wonderfully animated film Happy Feet then you’ll understand why and I don’t ever recollect Carrie and chums trading Sex and The City for Sex and The Aspen Highlands? Hmmm, but the idea of a cosy ski chic wardrobe and plenty of après-ski is rather lovely and I will try most things at least once.

I had numerous opportunities to go on my school’s annual ski trips but decided against it as most girls attending were the sporty types and crowned ski champions since the age of 3. To be honest it was best not to embarrass myself and so I opted instead for educational art trips to Italy where cappuccinos and cathedrals were a safer and warmer option. Regretful? No. I’ll take a Tuscan sunset, Italian vineyards and Roberto Cavalli jungle prints over sub zero temperatures, fleece and Lindt chocolate any day of the week. Mulled wine, however, is another matter.

Older and wiser I have decided I would like to enjoy a ski holiday and I quite like the notion of sitting on a comfy couch in a cabin surrounded by an open fire and mountain scenery scoffing cheese fondue washed down with mulled wine and brandy from the bar. Yes, my type of skiing holiday swaps the slopes in favour of après ski activity and holistic spa therapy.

Indeed, there is nothing more glamorous than visiting skiing resorts during winter and being seen on the social circuit. Cue the cosmopolitan atmosphere, champagne climate, glamour and nightlife just as much as the skiing, and I can see why so many of my friends and colleagues are avid ski fans – the adrenalin rush, the physical endurance, being at one with nature and the fresh mountain air. Surely the latter can be achieved with a ringside seat slope-side and physical endurance can be challenged in the day spa?

But if you are schussing down the slopes this year at St. Moritz, Hunter, Stowe, Aspen or Gstaad, you’ll need ski couture that’s equal parts glam and high tech. Who wants to be mistaken for the Michelin Man?  The more glamorous resorts require dressing in a spiffier manner than one would normally. Of course wrapping up in cosy cashmere, snuggly padded jackets and disappearing under a few layers needn’t be unstylish.

Thankfully luxury designer brands like CelineMoncler, Pringle of Scotland and N.Peal have elegant knitwear and outerwear in fabrics worthy of stroking, while  state of the art sportswear labels Musto, Helly Hansen, The North Face and Tog24, (all with great seasonal offers at Bicester Village), ensure there is no reason not to embrace the cool crisp air in perfect style!

As my best friend tells me it’s about getting the balance right. She would know. She’s been skiing twice a year since she was two years old. When I told her my biggest dilemma was whether sunglasses are more chic than goggles, she gave good advice. Apparently sunglasses are positively dangerous in a whiteout and so best be sensible and invest in uber stylish over-sized and/or mirrored sunglasses for the terrace, plus top-notch all-weather goggles for speeding downhill. I rather like the way Charlotte Casiraghi looks so fabulous in hers, maybe I will goggle up and attempt a nursery slope, though I have visions of emulating Bridget Jones’s ski style which would be hideously unattractive.

My friend and I have been discussing where to go for my first (après) ski and spa holiday and his bi-annual pilgrimage to the slopes. There are hundreds of resorts in Europe and the US and there is no shortage of places to visit. He quite likes the Igloo Village in St Moritz while I quite fancy the Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa in San Cassiano, Italy; the almost hidden ski resort where our lovely friends at Bicester Village have secured a holiday prize. Yet I have been informed (read: told firmly) we will be going to chic and fashionable St Moritz which apparently is also one of the places to be seen, and synonymous with elegance, class and sophistication. He decided on here because the resort is a high quality ski area offering extensive skiing, horse racing, golf and polo and wonderful hotels (snow is one thing, an Igloo Village is non negotiable). What bliss. While he is impersonating the Cadbury Milk Tray Man there will be plenty of time for self indulgent après-ski entertainment around the clock! I can hardly wait for those mountain restaurants with magnificent views, ski huts and chic bars, and of course a myriad of spa treatments.

Thank heavens for Celine.  I wonder if their boutique has their legendary fur trimmed boots and cashmere gloves? I know MAC at The Cosmetics Company has some delicious SPF tinted lip balm too! I’m enjoying getting prepared for this new adventure, after all it is a great excuse to buy some furry earmuffs from UGG.

Bicester Village and the Relais & Chateaux Rosa Alpina offer you the chance to win a four – night luxury escape for two people at the Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa, The Dolomites, Italy. The prize includes deluxe accommodation, daily breakfast, treatments at the Daniela Steiner Spa and ski passes. There is a double Michelin Starred restaurant, and some of Europe’s best ski-runs and lifts. For your chance to win, enter here before Friday 26th February 2010.

From Transatlantic Chic to European Elite

September 29th, 2009 by Stacey Waterman
Paul Smith

Paul Smith

I didn’t go to the shows, but was rooted to my Blackberry throughout, eagerly digesting every morsel of info that was tweeted, facebooked and blogged by the fashion press on a daily basis. The shows have been glossy and dramatic, everything we wanted them to be and more. Our grateful thanks goes to Hilary Alexander, Bitchbuzz, DisneyRollerGirl, Grazia and Elle, who between them sent approximately 10 tweets per minute from London Fashion Week and delivered the drama from the runway into the palm of my hand. The great surprise was Tavi Gevinson, the 13 year old fashion blogger from Chicago suburbia whose Style Rookie blog has had the fashion industry at her feet and Peaches Geldof reporting for GMTV!! Ah how I love fashion’s “New Year” and it’s not over yet!

From New York & London

With their glamorous celebrity filled front rows and continual buzz, New York and London did not fail to impress. As Gwyneth Paltrow said “London is where it’s at. It inspires the world”. How much did we love Burberry’s return to the London runway?  Emma Watson is our new Brit icon for the modern woman, and she glowed in the front row as Burberry presented the 2010 twist to their classic belted trench coat with puff sleeves and shimmering sparkles. Cue investment piece, if you don’t have a Burberry trench, get one now and love it for eternity.

DKNY

DKNY

 
Looking at the collections en masse one thing springs to mind – legs! I have till March to achieve honed and toned pins, for the trend for shorts will continue from now through to next year. It is one thing to wear city shorts with black opaque tights underneath (bring on November), but totally bare skinned? There is much work to be done before next spring.
 
I loved the way Paul Smith combined tailored city shorts with African themed leopard-prints, English gentry inspired leather elbow patches and his trademark stripes. Nicole Farhi’s playsuits in delicate pastel prints were casual and fun and Ralph Lauren’s denim was different, but it was DKNY who really went to town with city shorts and romper suits – chic and sporty in neutrals and bold brights and worn with cycle shorts underneath!!
Yes Bridget Jones underwear as outerwear for the summer to go under everything, from shorts to playsuits and dresses. Donna Karan really knows how to dress women.
Pure genius!  
  
Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson

But it was Matthew Williamson’s return to London Fashion Week that was my moment of pure happiness. He may have moved away from Boho chic to more structured & graphic pieces but own a Matthew Williamson from any collection and it is considered money well spent for seasons to come. His work is timeless.

 

Viva Italia

Now to Milan in beautiful Italy, the home to some of the world’s most renowned designers including Gucci, Pucci, Missoni, Armani, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo and Prada, where this week it’s the Italian designers chance to show off their talents. I personally am rather excited about this as Italians do fashion like no other.

So far we have seen headscarves at Marni, the return of the corset from Dolce & Gabbana which is heralded as the one single piece of must-have-clothing for next spring/summer and super-sexy bodycon from Gucci. Diet starts now.

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Saving the Best till Last

Tomorrow is Paris, the crème de la crème of all Fashion Weeks. I am anticipating more sexy silhouettes, tulle and sparkles and simply cannot wait to see the creations from Vivienne Westwood (my favourite, we love her always), Balenciaga, Balmain, Maison Martin Margiela, Gareth Pugh, Loewe, Valentino, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, YSL, Chloe, Stella McCartney, Giles and of course John Galliano, Chanel, Celine and Christian Dior.

Until then…au revoir!